10 mm for a lapped seam typically used on jeans and heavy-weight casual items. 10 mm/12 mm for a French seam used on soft fabrics such as silks and fine cottons. Includes trousers and skirts, and often with a small amount of stretch in the cloth. Widely used in many different unlined garment types. 10 mm for a five-thread machine that sews and overlocks in one go. 8 mm/10 mm for a four-thread safety stitch machine used for bias-cut and jersey garments. 12 mm for a flat stitch open seam with overlocked edges. Mostly used for tailoring and coats but suitable for any fully lined garment. Guidance for particular situations includes the points below.ġ0 mm for a flat stitched open seam with edges left raw because garment will be lined. There are some conventions such as using 12 mm (1/2″) for main seams and 6 mm (1/4″) for bagging out seams but they are not always appropriate and depend on three main factors:įabric, seam finish, type of sewing machine. A top and under sleeve illustrate most of the corner options, with the change corner tab selected to define the corner shapes Lectra is the copyright owner of all Modaris software images reproduced herein with its permission () text © Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2012ħ0 Pattern cutting for clothing using CADħ.2.1 A note on seam allowances The amount of extra fabric allowed to form the seam allowance varies according to the requirements of the garment and how it is finished. Finishing, seam allowances, corners and grain lines. This chapter continues from Chapter 6 by looking at the following functions in the Lectra Modaris toolbox: F4, F5, F6 (incorporating F9 and F10), F7 and F8 (including F12).į4: finishing, seam allowances, corners and grain linesħ.1 Menu F4. Key words: toolbox, F4, F5, F6, F7, F8, lines and points, notches, Lectra Modaris. This chapter focuses on the F4, F5, F6, F7 and F8 menus. Chapter 7 A guide to the toolbox in Lectra Modaris pattern cutting software: F4–F8Ībstract: The purpose of this chapter is to introduce the Modaris user to the specific pattern cutting toolbox displayed on the right-hand side of the screen, also known as the trade functions.
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